Sunday, April 18, 2010

First weekend climbing at Smith Rock

This past weekend, I was able to to return to Smith Rock State Park to climb. Two years ago, I would spend every weekend here climbing and meeting all kinds of new people. I loved it. Lets just say to start off, that after three days of doing what I would consider hard climbing, I am tired. Smith Rock is a beautiful place. It has tall walls of welded tuff (a type of rock which i will explain in a minute), the Crooked River running around it, and plenty of climbers. Here are some pictures of Smith Rock that I have taken in my visits.

The Morning Glory Wall, The gullies, and the Crooked River

A view of the "backside" of Smith. Monkey face is seen just left of center with the Smith Rock Group front and center.

A view of the Picnic Lunch wall, Red Wall, and Misery Ridge trail from Staender Ridge.

Brogan Spire and the Marsupials from the parking lot.

The Picnic Lunch wall and Red Wall from a state parks office.

Staender Ridge and the Marsupials viewed from the Red Wall. That is Adam and his dog on the right.

Friday was the first day we went out. Calvin, Ryan, and I headed up to Shipwreck Gullie. There we got on Fish and Chips (5.10a). I had forgotten how technical the welded tuff can be. I was soon to hate it even more. Next Ryan and I hopped on a 5.11b. I took the first lead on it.

Here is Adam clipping the fourth bolt. After this you traverse right. As I was beginning to move up after the traverse a foothold blew out, or came off the wall causing me to fall. Since I was traversing and to the right of the last piece of protection (the bolt) I swung back to the left out of control. On the swing back to the right, I stuck a sharp protrusion of the rock with my right forearm. It caused a small cut and my arm to be sore the rest of the day and parts of the next day.

After that I did a few more climbs, one of them being Da Kine Corner 5.12b/c. Its a very difficult route. Luckily I was able to grab a toprope from Ryan and Adam. I did most of the moves, but didn't have the endurance to connect them. From the day I had some great pictures. Here was my favorite of Calvin throwing for a jug at the top of the route I fell off of.

The next day, I went out to Smith with no partners. This can be difficult because not everyone is welcome to someone wanting to climb with them. Luckily, I ran across these three people climbing and I had climbed with one of them my last trip out here. They let me climb with them for the day. During the day, some conversations came up that caused me to realize why I was even out here at all. These climbers were not Christians, in fact, they were not open to standardized religion. That is why I am out here, to spread the gospel to climbers like them. I am working on the Solid Rock website, and climbing when able to, so that others may come to know the loving grace that God offers all people.

Then today, Sunday, I went to church with Calvin and his wife Jan. It was nice to be able to go and worship while I am out here. After church though, Calvin and I headed out to Smith to get a final round in for the weekend. While hiking in, we ran across Adam and his wife. They had just gotten there since they also had gone to church. We did some fun climbs up on the Red wall. I was able to lead a fun finger/thin-hands crack call Chouinard Crack 5.9. It was a beautiful splitter that unfortunately didn't go higher. After that, Calvin and I went back to Shipwreck Gullie to work a 5.12a called Bolted From Blue. It is a long, long climb with a high crux. This has been Calvin's project. He went up and ended up coming off right after the crux from one of his hands slipping. I then decided to give it a try. I was able to make it just below the crux before I fell. Then I worked the crux moves and was surprised that I was able to do. Looks like I may have found a project as well.

It was getting late by this time so we left the park. Hopefully, Calvin and I will be able to get back on the route next weekend. Calvin is so close to getting it clean. I really want to take pictures of him on the route. Next weekend, expect more pictures and stories from climbing.

1 comment:

Travis Weil said...

I just realized that I never explained what Welded Tuff is. After next weekend, I will give you a description of it along with some photos of what the rock looks like up close.